One Tonne Automaton

1/10 SS Panzer Commander Camo base

2011-08-11T21:45:00.003+01:00

Added the base colours to the jacket.
These will aid the blends I'll be adding over the top.

1/10 SS Panzer Commander cleaned up and basecoated

2011-08-08T19:25:00.002+01:00

A bit more progress on the bust.

Had to re-do the back of the hat, the area had been destroyed by a casting lug.
I used Kneadatite to expand the join to the head, edging cord, and make the shape.
Then I blended the shape in with MMD Green Putty, this creates a skin and hardens the surface of the Kneadatite for whatever reason. It makes it easier to sand smooth.

The edge of one of the epaulettes had a mising piece, so I replaced that with Plasticard.

I started on the face by painting a deep red in to all of the areas that blood pools.
The paint is still wet here, not gloss.

Here's the head after a couple of layers, I'm changing the jacket colour to make it Autumn Oakleaf with a reversible winter side.

1/10 SS Panzer Commander Primed

2011-07-30T20:17:00.003+01:00

Test primer to see areas that need touching up, I'm going to have to do some work on the back of the cap. It had a big lug on the back that will require attention.

Overall and nicely cast bust and worth spending a bit of time over.

A dramatic closeup

I think I've found the right colour piping for the shoulder boards.

MIG Productions 1/10 SS Panzer Commander

2011-07-30T15:00:00.002+01:00

New toy! Opening day of my Dads new model shop, sos I thought I'd get something.
A nice new shiny MIG bust! I plan to do the panzer wrap in some sort of camouflage.

The completed MIG version

Just Sketching - A JTR Racer

2011-05-08T00:53:00.003+01:00

Been inspired by some members of the Maschinen Krieger Forums to have a go at a JTR style Racing car.

I think these are pictures of the original.

Plus a couple I'm using for inspiration.

What I've got so far, an old 1:48 scale 109, a 1:24 VW Beetle, and some bits..

Proto Melusine VII

2011-04-10T16:32:00.003+01:00

Been working on my Mayan wall.

Some parts marked out for cutting.

The end result..

Don't know why Masons make such a big deal about this :)

All the parts glued together.

Its then soaked in watered down PVA to stiffen up the section.

Adding in the water channel and the kerb.

The Melusine on the base to check height, another third of the back wall to go.
You can see the abortive "tiles" in the foreground, I've gone with more foam in the end.

The lower wall and pavement section with texture, and a backup paving infill behind the kerb.

The smaller paving sections added and a couple of closeups.

Proto Melusine VI

2011-03-15T23:29:00.003Z

Sometimes when you need to build a wall, you have to actually build a wall..

Proto Melusine V

2011-03-12T20:46:00.002Z

Part of my get stuff done 2011.

Change of tack on the base, building it out of foam and cork spacers.
Probably with a Mayan feel now too.
I seem to remember the fluff for the Melusine being first deployed in rainforests. So collecting some architecture refs atm..

The wall is a little random at the minute.
I'll have to chop blocks, and carve fake stones onto the larger panels, easier than my previous method though.

Patlabor Hannibal & Reiver

2011-03-02T23:25:00.006Z

Almost finished work on this one, some varnish and a bit of weathering needed.
I may keep it unbased so I can use it for other things..

Started work on this one. An old kit I overstretched on previously, plan on bringing it back.
It was an SAFS Prototype conversion kit and a Polar Bear base, then I changed it.
Now I'm trying to rescue it by turning it into a Space type prototype, undergoing battlefield testing.
Though in the scene itself the suit will be shown at rest. Excuse to use a cool colourscheme.

It will be an open suit once done, but there are a lot of gaps need rebuilding before I think about the cockpit.

Boys Night II

2011-02-16T18:24:00.002Z

Moved on to the painting for a couple of evenings, need to go over this one again though I think.

Difficult to see under house lights though.

Cheated a little on mine, by working on it during the week.
That oh so lovely gloss/decal stage.

Most of the body is decaled. I need to put some stuff on the limbs though, they're looking pretty bare.

Boys Night

2011-02-04T18:41:00.003Z

Been showing a friends son how to put a kit together.
Just been dealing with the basics on this one, Seam lines and things like that.

Here's where he's up to so far.

I've been working on this at the same time. :)

A small change

2011-01-01T14:38:00.002Z

All wargames related stuff is now on Ultima Ratio Regum

This blog will now only focus on Large scale models.
The wargames stuff was getting crowded.

G-Pawn V

2010-11-15T20:04:00.000Z

Ok so I can't do new suits..

Not all of the interior has been fitted yet, more of a dry run to see how it looks so far.

The salvaged NeuPzF, with added strap rings, and firing mechanism. A mix of vanilla Gustav and Zitader.
Waiting for its dirtwash, I plan on making the tube look much older than the round.

G-Pawn IV

2010-11-10T23:30:00.001Z

Quick pic while the semi-gloss coat is drying.

The lighter colour is duck egg green, I guess I didn't supress the flash enough.
Good enough for a bench shot though.

G-Pawn III

2010-10-20T22:17:00.001+01:00

Pilot is nearly done, just need to paint out the deamon eyes.

I'm fiddling with a template to make this blog look a bit better, so things might change from time to time.

G-Pawn II

2010-10-17T19:09:00.003+01:00

Another forum post transcription.

Slabs are drying on the Proto base. Started on a model to keep a promise to Rsteiner.
This isn't going to be your usual AFS dio, but it is going to be all G Pawn.
The only part I'm leaving off is the helmet, just so people can see the pilot properly. See below for BS reasoning.
I'm also using sculpted joints, and a converted pilot. Plus all the usual adding in missing wires.

Its going to be an early war water survey unit in a fairly new AFS.
Helmets have been removed from the suit by pilots, an act they only get away with due to the units non-combat status.
The units low resupply priority also means a lack of available weaponry, so some members make use of scavanged NPF.
Central to the units specialised role is the use of dogs to aid in the search for water.

I've done a little to the pilot so far.

The plan is to have her pose slightly offset to the suit.
Like she's half hanging inside the body.

I still need to build the inside around the shoulders and the front, and I've only started filling out the space behind.

_____

A bit more work on the pilot, waiting for the masking solution to dry so I can add the shoulder padding.

_____

Most of its covered up now. :-\ The shoulder padding took up more space than I planned.

_____

Changed the shoulders

It needs something to finish off the tops of the arches. But I'll leave that till its set a little more.

______

Cockpit done I think, Just all the joint covers left to sculpt!

I'll leave this for a while to set properly, and get back to the Proto now I think.

G-Pawn

2010-10-09T16:46:00.006+01:00

A sneak peak at the next kit in the line, I started this a while ago.
Now I have a good plan (or two) for it!

Either Post-post-apocalyptic girl in a scavanged suit, with a big dog.

Or unit photograph, with the girl posing with the dog.
Probably with some kind of sign in front with unit name and the like.
This would be harder to do seeing as I'd have to cut the leg parts to get her to kneel properly.

I have to admit I like the first idea better.

Proto Melusine IV

2010-10-09T16:39:00.001+01:00

I've had a few thoughts over the years about weathering a suit.

While I feel that Real Life^TM tanks are a good place to start with weathering references for these.
There is one small problem, its not a tank. I feel these suits would get a rougher time of it.
While a tank can go anywhere there is width enough in front or behind, or enough room to turn and/or there's something it can knock over to make width.
These suits can pretty much go anywhere a human could, providing there is enough clearance, or again there is something it can move out of its way.

So while a tank would recieve the vast majority its superficial scrapes and nicks around the front, down the sides, and where the crew walk or maintain the vehicle, there is still an awful lot of blank space that would break up these patches of wear.
A battlesuit on the other hand, I think would get scraped all over.
Places where plates rub, around hatches and maintenance ports, between the legs, on the outside of limb armour, manipulators, and high points.
Its also much smaller than a tank, meaning that the wear and tear would be more bunched up.

I guess thats just the way I see it. These suits scrabble up embankments, take cover in rubble, bash through woodland and forest, and scrape through doorways.
They're armoured like a tank, but they fight like infantry.

Of course, that only applies if you forget these things are made of ceramic, in which case the scapes could just be a slightly lighter or darker colour than the surface.

It also only really applies if you're me.

Pretty much put together, only the arms can be pulled back out, and I haven't fitted the aerials yet.
Only some grease marks and some dust to add, I'll do that once I've done the base.

Right now I have flagstones to cut!

Started on the base.
This is just the form the detail will be sitting on. The finished effect will be old weathered stone, overgrown with plants.

I really need to tidy my desk!

Proto Melusine III

2010-10-04T23:07:00.002+01:00

First dirtwash.

I covered the model in hairspray, and the brushed GW Badab black wash over the whole lot.
I scrubbed most of it off after, and here it is with a nice solid coat of smelly varnish.

I'm still thinking about a Jungle temple backdrop. 8)

Proto Melusine II

2010-09-29T17:08:00.004+01:00

First paint app.

Its darker than in the pictures, I think the gloss is making it appear brighter to the camera.
Its Vallejo brown violet, with some dirty water and gloss medium sprayed as a basecoat for the top stages.

In natural light it looks a little like that cowpat brown some US tanks were painted with in Vietnam.

kinda like this colour, but I'll have to save it for another kit as I'm going to spray hairspray on it later.

All change!

The basecoat for the camouflage scheme. A mixture of pale greyblue and gunship green.

Darkgreen and black/brown secondary colours next. Yay!

Camo scheme done, a couple of places the colour lifted off with the mask, but in such small amounts I can pass it of as scratching.

The main influence on the colour scheme, though I didn't try and follow the pattern very closely.

Proto Melusine

2010-09-17T18:41:00.005+01:00

Another annotated forum post mash up.

Started on this at the start of the week because I need something to work on while the Neu dries.

Not too much filling to get the three portions of the hull to marry.
3mm of plasticard at the front, 1.5mm at the back and and then all of the sanding required to get the top to match up.

I'm going to set the hatch back slightly, I like the lip you get at the rear and the big lower lip at the front.

Kinda looks like a troll

There'll be some changes as I'm not willing to sacrifice a whole Gustav to this suit.
The arms and legs will be from a Heinrich instead.

I've replaced the bolts on the top, and the round parts on the front.
The original cast detail was a bit weak.

Operation fill up the big gap is going well, I've built the base for the overlap onto the main body.
Thats so I can build the overlap onto the hatch and keep it as a seperate piece.
I've also added locks to the little bulges either side of the main eye.
Oh and the legs are built too btw.

Just need to texture the plastic parts and fiddle with a few small details, I wanted a nice quick build after spending three months working on the Neu.

I've had to add a new bulge on the rear right, a new aerial mount on the left, and a new exhaust on the rear as I don't have these parts spare.

I've also given him elbow pads as the pose I want the arm in stretches the joint a little, and I've had to grind away part of the body.

The washer its glued to is only temp, just so He'd stand up.

Just need to texture the pads and waist plates (and fit those), and build a new sensor for the top.
Then I can prime, I'll be brush painting this one as I cant be bothered to muck about with airbrushes at the moment.

I've had to redesign the joint between the legs and the body to get a gustav hull to marry with a set of Heinrich legs.

Neuspotter 1:20 kit III

2010-08-30T20:39:00.004+01:00

Only a few details to fix up, like filling in the ends of the springs on the slim forearm, and the aerials left to do. Then I can prime!

A little bit of fixing up is needed on the AG pods. The new coiled wire unfortunately acts as an optical illusion, making it difficult to get is straight.
Even when its shown to be with rulers, my brain keeps telling me it looks wonky!
Well and it is a little, it hangs slightly from the middle, but sits straight from above. :-\
Think its more to do with how the new parts sit, might have to redesign the modifications.
Not too much of a problem as I plan to do the AG casing a different colour, and can start painting while I work on this. ;)

The main parts all together. The next jobs here:
Cable cutting for the various wires and pipes but that won't take more than an hour or so for the whole kit.
Adding in some texture here and there on the body which takes minutes.

The engine bells, fuel tanks (which will now run hoses to the bells rather than the stem), a domed sensor that will mount on the side of the body, and the chestplate.

The new head plate now has miniature shipbuilders bolts attached.
For the dome of the aerial I thinned down some stopping with cellulose thinners, which I stippled on the surface and sanded back slightly.
The eyeplate has had the lens drilled out. I plan to replace this with a lens from a webcam.

By texturing different parts in different ways I hope to reduce the made from plastic look as much as possible, by making it apear to be constructed of various materials.
Hopefully making the whole model look more real.

Neuspotter 1:20 kit III

2010-08-23T21:06:00.002+01:00

My Ma.k. Kebab

I've run the rod that will hold it above the base right the way through the structure.
This essentially means most of the model is sat on a supporting metal frame, making it stronger. Only the arms and rear detail will be hanging from it.

Unfortunately I screwed up drilling the cap from the memory module, so I had to replace it.

Three wheelparts from the Revell 1/35 RS0/03 kit make up the new cap.
Though this has meant I've been able to strengthen the point the rod makes contact with the model.

I've added a few new ports on the main body, I want it to have more cabling snaking around.
Also added a new armour plate, and some more surface detail from random tank parts.

I've also made some progress on the AG pods.

Neuspotter 1:20 kit II

2010-08-14T22:01:00.002+01:00

Started working on the anti-grav engines.

Cutting out the unwanted parts, its only roughcut so far though.
I'll be fitting these two reels in the middle to replace the badly moulded parts.

Should look like this when done, only better.

Apart from that I've given the fuel tanks a cast texture, to give them a high pressure look.

I've also finished off a few details on the head and memory unit, short aerials and stuff like that.

Neuspotter 1:20 kit.

2010-08-04T11:37:00.004+01:00

A collation of forum posts over the last couple of months, My Neuspotter kit.

An SF3D Original Neuspotter (released in the late 80's, none of your ZBV3000 rubbish here)

Some of the multimedia parts and the sprues, there's quite a lot to these kits :D

Some more work done on the head, I've drilled some points to replace kit parts with brass and alu rod, also I've scored out pits around some parts so I can add weld beads and the like.

I build in subassemblies so it actually looks like this.

Also some work completed on the arms.

Decided that if I am going to add a sand cast texture to the head I'd have to make it look cast in parts. I was planning on this anyway, but rushed ahead of myself.

So the first stage was to cut it up.
Then I added plasticard strips so I can remount the plates.

These strips make it easier to fit the pieces as individually they are more flexible than a single piece.

Once they're all together I can remodel the edges of the plates to make a thin weld strip (similar to the welds seen on a Kingtiger)

I've also drilled out holes for extre greeblies like some more antenna and sensor housing.

I've added extra detail to the top panel with some hinges, I also plan some kind of grip or handle, and maybe a tension spring.

The kit Saturn V engine bells have been replaced with resin aftermarket parts.

Plus I'm preparing for the end-build by getting some spring cable ready, there will be two types. This plain cable, and also a cable with control wire I'll be producing from some pallet straining wire.

Also I've got as far as test-fitting the majority of the body.
Those wire arms are a b**** to put together!

The next stage I'll mostly be concentrating on the head, I figure its the bit that will be looked at the most.

I've replaced a number of plastic parts with brass and aluminium rod, as well as adding a few greeblies of my own.

The main part of the head is pretty much finished, quite pleased with the additions I've made.

Spent this eve preparing the model for zimmerit (one half at a time so the masking doesn't send me mad!

I've applied the zimmerit to the bottom half of the memory module, now I just have to knock it back a bit with sandpaper.

Then remove the mask and tidy up before starting on the other half.

Its coming along. :D

I have a few more ideas. Apart from the heads new sensor visor, the head and memory module are pretty much done barring the fine details.

The head with its new visor and carry handles for the sensor plate.

The memory module with its coat of Zimmerit , I have no idea what its for. Chemical EMP baffle? Signature damper??
I've also given the flat open portions a slightly uneven texture (like lightly rippled and dented rolled steel.), to to cover up that smooth plastic 'its a kit' look..

I've re-plated a boring pipe on the stem with parts from the Revell 1/35 RS0/03, PaK 40 kit.
Other than that I've added new ports where the cables run from the body into the stem.
I need to texture the open area on the back of the stem (flat rolled metal), and texture the plates at the front (cast looking).
Also I need to add a collar top and bottom to ensure a flat fit at either end.

The next area I'm paying attention to is re-rigging the pipework/cabling on the body, to something make that looks realistic to me. (not explained mind you, just stuff that looks like it would work.)
Its mostly dictated by whats coming from the head and lower portions, plus whatever greeblies catch my eye while I'm putting it together.
I feel these models benefit from a little extra depth to make them believable.

After that I have the Antigrav modules to rebuild, they picked the worst place to put a split so I'm going to make the coils from scratch and refit the housing over the top.

The orange highlighted parts are the areas I need to remove.

I kinda noodle on the bigger kits, about half of the changes are planned. The other half just kinda evolve as I'm going.

2009-12-13T13:28:00.003Z

A grav bike I'm working on for a competition.

I've removed details, I'll be adding new ones in their place.
Also I've deepened or even opened up new panel lines.

I'm toying with the idea of replacing the whole front end, its a little twisted, I shall build the replacement before I cut off the old part.
That way if I fubar it I can toss it away and use the old one.
Also I'm replacing the piddly little engine at the back with the part from inside the lower dome, since it wont be visible after I've fitted it.

Looks roughly like this at the moment.

Skinhead WIP XXI

2009-09-28T12:30:00.003+01:00

Side cameras/sensors done, just have to figure out how to fit them to the bodywork.
The green ports are for the cable that'll run from the back.

The funny cutoff with the shadow is because I photographed the cameras next to the wrong coverplates

Oh and I've fixed that wonky light. (well its a IR lamp now..)

Skinhead WIP XX

2009-09-26T19:07:00.005+01:00

Slow progress this weekend, Real Life getting in the way.

The covers for the side windows with the mounting plate for the cameras.

Made out of the windows from a defunct kit, and road wheels from a PzIV.

Me P1099 Side Project

2009-09-26T19:00:00.003+01:00

Just for fun.

Intermission - Texturing tutorial

2009-09-20T19:10:00.003+01:00

Most times I post a model with a cast texture applied I'm asked how I did it.
So to save time in the future I thought I'd write a short(ish) tutorial.

Stage One - Light Texture

Firstly you need a model. :D

Mask off any areas that you don't want to be surfaced.
I use Maskol as Mr Surfacer doesn't stick to it too easily.
You will need to remove and reapply the mask between the different stages, to prevent the sponge and surfacer from building up too much over the masked parts.

(I know, I know, this was photoshopped in after the fact :P )

These are the main ingredients. Mr Surfacer 1200, and 500, plus one sponge.

It is a fairly simple technique. load up the sponge "tip" with surfacer and repeatedly dab it against the models surface.
Only do a small area at a time If you try to do too large an area the coat will dry and wont react the right way.
Split the model into quarters (front/back left/right that sort of thing)

First the surfacer will develop small humps, then it will start to string a little.
Don't worry this will melt back into the wet surfacer.
The main point of this is to make the surface coat dry out and start to grip the sponge.

Small parts of sponge will tear from the main body and stick to the surface, this will create the pits that give it that open cast look, and also the raised areas that will be applied in a later stage.

Leave it to dry overnight. Important! It might look dry on the surface, but if you try to sand it too soon it will just tear and clump up.
Better to leave it a little longer than do it too soon and ruin it.

Once its dry.
Cut the Layer back so it is very thin, otherwise it will overpower the later stages.

Then sand first with a mid grade sandpaper (I use wet and dry 280 grade paper)

Then move on to a fine grade (400), the point of this is to remove the small pieces of sponge just leaving behind their impressions.
Then remove the mask.

I normally stop at this stage for things like arms and legs as they don't really need the heavy texture applied to the body.

Stage Two - Medium Texture

re-apply your mask.

This next stage is to add some slightly heavier pits to specific areas.
The goal is not to re coat the model at this stage but to either emphasise earlier pits or re-apply to areas sanded clean.

Using the sponge from the previous stage causes larger clumps to gather on the surface, due to the sponge already being coated in surfacer.

As with stage one sand back and remove your mask.

Stage Three - Heavy Texture

This stage will add the "scabs" seen on the surface of WWII era tanks particularly Shermans and other sandcast Allied tanks.

I use a thickened bottle of Mr Surfacer 500 for this.

You can either use an old bottle or thicken it with acrylic resin, talc, or calcium carbonate.

Again mask off areas you want to keep..
The thicker surfacer will dry faster and differently to the neat stuff, leaving behind large clumps due to it drying quickly and pulling more sponge off as you go.

One final sand and its finished :D

Obviously you can alter this to taste, stopping at whatever stage you like.
Unfortunately the camera doesn't pick up on all the subtle pits and marks until its painted, and the effect will always look better in real life than in pictures.

SkinheadWIP XIX

2009-09-19T20:00:00.001+01:00

Texturing finished. A couple of details to fix.. A bit more of the runoff ribs came away than I planned, but easily fixed with some kneadatite :D

I'll be posting a Tutorial on how I did it, seeing as I'm asked most times I post this technique.

Skinhead WIP XVIII

2009-09-13T20:18:00.001+01:00

Started the texturing process

Which looks nothing like the finished product.

(Go back a few posts.. this is either déjà vu or a Möbius loop)

Skinhead WIP XVII

2009-09-13T15:20:00.001+01:00

The latest indecipherable images

Certainly more subtle than the Kneadatite, and easier to sand away the high points..
Guess I'll have to wait a while before I'll be sure it fits the way I want it to look.

Skinhead WIP XVI

2009-09-09T21:58:00.003+01:00

Snapped these with my phone while doing a little maintenance today.
Might help explain why my weathering can be quite heavy sometimes, this Forklift isn't even very old.

Craig's hand in the background, who for some reason couldn't stop playing with the throttle.

Its also helpful as this dio will feature brick dust and the like, (shot up city scene) and helps me to see how that sort of dust will collect.

Mostly just been touching bits up, geneally avoiding the scary new experiment that comes next..

Skinhead WIP XV

2009-09-07T22:27:00.005+01:00

Re-attaching the sideplates.
Stole a trick from real welders and reinforced the joints with some crossmembers.
Plasticard never seems to stick as well, so I figured Nitto platic sticks best to Nitto plastic.

This will be filled in from behind to create the base for the putty.
I'll be fiddling with the way the hip plate hinges fix into the bodywork, or changing them maybe.

I think after making quite a few OOTB models I was starting to get bored with Ma.K.
This build has re-ignited the flames somewhat :D

Skinhead WIP XIV

2009-09-06T16:50:00.000+01:00

My god what have I done!

Will help with the "welding" honest..
The plate under the hatch will be smoothed over.. unrepairable I think

Also the further adventures of Mr Bollard

Some rust then paint

Skinhead WIP XIII

2009-09-01T19:05:00.000+01:00

Here are the welds I'll be basing mine on..

I've mostly found attached parts have a rough fillet

welded plates have a leveled/rough fill with minor gaps or a slight divot. At least based on the era I want to represent.

Started on the groundwork. Here's one very exciting bollard

I used the ID code on the bollard as my signature.
Made from a till receipt roll middle, and half a Gustav hip joint.

Skinhead Wip XII

2009-09-01T14:38:00.000+01:00

Small update.

Skinhead WIP XI

2009-08-24T11:40:00.000+01:00

Started on the engine. Pre-dirtied with some squadron paste.
A "bootlace" pipe will be running from the main outlet, which was a radiator housing cut from a King Tiger engine deck.
The grey tube underneath is the silencer, which was built out of a fueltank from an unknown kit (my father wargames and misses all the fiddly details off his tanks, so I get them ), and two top plates again from a King Tiger fume extractor vent.

Depending on whether I add any extra units to the outside, the exhaust pipe will either run straight to the silencer and then split, or it may split before.. I'm basically doodling on this model.
Either way after the split one pipe will go to the exhaust to vent waste gasses, while the other goes into that inverted Panther exhaust, making it look like the engine is siphoning off gas that can be reused in the engine.

I've removed the welds I had added so far as after looking at my references

It doesn't really look all that similar.
I'm going to try a different way of adding the welds using squadron putty piped into the gaps, I'll be running some tests. Though this might mean I have to rebuild the edges of the plates.
Ah well making you're mistakes look purposeful is one of the challenges of modelling.

I'm trying not to rush this like my previous builds because I'd rather have one or two really good looking builds on my shelf than 20 crappy ones

Skinhead WIP X

2009-08-17T01:13:00.001+01:00

Replaced the cover because of a botched Riveting job.
This one fits a little better I think, I've also filled out behind that with white Squadron paste.
I might want to drill there at some point so I want it to be nice and solid

After that I cut a roughly 2mm wide strip from some thin plasticard and glued it over the putty.
I'll blend this into the bodywork with some Green Stuff, and add some other small details I have planned

Skinhead WIP IX

2009-08-15T00:47:00.000+01:00

I want it to look like its had a bit of modification and repair by the unit.
Like its been adapted to suit Mercenary battle tactics.

Added a small cover for the engine this eve.

I used the square plastic sheet from the Heinrich kit to make it, I scrubbed it with some sandpaper to take the shine off.
Then roughly marked out the shape I wanted

After cutting and shaping around a dental tool, I ended up with this
Measurements consisted of holding the part up to the model and roughly marking the bend points.

Then it was simply a case of glueing it on. when its dry I'll finish it off..

Skinhead WIP VIII

2009-08-09T00:33:00.000+01:00

Front hinges done:
Rear hinges underway.

Skinhead WIP VII

2009-08-08T14:14:00.000+01:00

Decided to hang equipment off the bodywork of my Skinhead, It'll Look like this:
..but different Just a quick mockup of how it might look, obviously not mag pouches.
I'll have to sculpt them with greenstuff so that should be fun.
I've collected a number of reference photos as I want to hit somewhere between tank stowage, and infantry webbing.

so armed with a choice selection from the spare sprues box

I just have to construct the sensor units, make a few small additions to the engine, add some cowling details, build the hinges for the hanging plates, and figure out how I'd hang this equipment off the bodywork.
I'm thinking U shaped hangers and hooks (think mirror hooks) with a rope holding it down.

Skinhead WIP VI

2009-08-05T22:59:00.000+01:00

Bit more done, screwed up adding some extra hooks so had to fill them in.
Will have to rethink that one.
Still have the ones at the back, will have a tow cable looped round it.

Skinhead WIP V

2009-08-04T16:17:00.000+01:00

Little more progress, Big plate hinge to be mounted where the lower mark is on the body.

Skinhead WIP IV

2009-08-03T19:48:00.000+01:00

I I'll paint the green a bit darker though, and larger more random shapes..
Progress update:
First off I fixed the back of the hatch so it met with the body.

Added a seal between the hatch and the opening, and puttied new welds on.

I'm hardly the tidiest of modellers!

More of a personal thing really, wanted to see how it would look with a seal.
It has gaps for water run off top and bottom, and sits the hatch quite snugly.

The welds for the side plates still need doing..

And some of the welds have suffered at the hands of change, so I'll probably have to pull the engine mount ones off and redo them.

Skinhead WIP III

2009-08-01T22:34:00.001+01:00

I like the shapes of the spots on that Giraffe it seems to be a variation on the normal regular splodge pattern on other Giraffes. Also I like the blend that goes on underneath.
Sort of like this, but different at the same time.

For the texture I use Mr Surfacer applied with a sponge and cut/sanded flat afterwards.
The sponge sticks a little and provides a core for the larger flat areas that are raised above the plastic. Giving a nice heavy Sandcast texture.

Skinhead WIP II

2009-08-01T22:30:00.000+01:00

Weld beads added (well the biggest ones anyway).

Skinhead WIP I

2009-08-01T22:15:00.000+01:00

On its way.

Carved out the lines for new weld beads, will be adding various details that I feel will improve
upon the original without changing the shape too much. stuff like hinges for the plates.
Using a layering idea, the Cast texture and "strahl" welds are under the mods added by the mercs so are finished before I add the extra armour plates and so on.

Based on this sort of colour scheme.

But using a breakup pattern inspired by this. (I saw a nature program the other day and *ping*!)