Neuspotter 1:20 kit.

A collation of forum posts over the last couple of months, My Neuspotter kit.

An SF3D Original Neuspotter (released in the late 80's, none of your ZBV3000 rubbish here)


Some of the multimedia parts and the sprues, there's quite a lot to these kits :D








Some more work done on the head, I've drilled some points to replace kit parts with brass and alu rod, also I've scored out pits around some parts so I can add weld beads and the like.

I build in subassemblies so it actually looks like this.



Also some work completed on the arms.



Decided that if I am going to add a sand cast texture to the head I'd have to make it look cast in parts. I was planning on this anyway, but rushed ahead of myself.

So the first stage was to cut it up.
Then I added plasticard strips so I can remount the plates.



These strips make it easier to fit the pieces as individually they are more flexible than a single piece.



Once they're all together I can remodel the edges of the plates to make a thin weld strip (similar to the welds seen on a Kingtiger)





I've also drilled out holes for extre greeblies like some more antenna and sensor housing.

I've added extra detail to the top panel with some hinges, I also plan some kind of grip or handle, and maybe a tension spring.



The kit Saturn V engine bells have been replaced with resin aftermarket parts.



Plus I'm preparing for the end-build by getting some spring cable ready, there will be two types. This plain cable, and also a cable with control wire I'll be producing from some pallet straining wire.



Also I've got as far as test-fitting the majority of the body.
Those wire arms are a b**** to put together!



The next stage I'll mostly be concentrating on the head, I figure its the bit that will be looked at the most.







I've replaced a number of plastic parts with brass and aluminium rod, as well as adding a few greeblies of my own.

The main part of the head is pretty much finished, quite pleased with the additions I've made.











Spent this eve preparing the model for zimmerit (one half at a time so the masking doesn't send me mad!




I've applied the zimmerit to the bottom half of the memory module, now I just have to knock it back a bit with sandpaper.



Then remove the mask and tidy up before starting on the other half.

Its coming along. :D



I have a few more ideas. Apart from the heads new sensor visor, the head and memory module are pretty much done barring the fine details.

The head with its new visor and carry handles for the sensor plate.



The memory module with its coat of Zimmerit , I have no idea what its for. Chemical EMP baffle? Signature damper??
I've also given the flat open portions a slightly uneven texture (like lightly rippled and dented rolled steel.), to to cover up that smooth plastic 'its a kit' look..



I've re-plated a boring pipe on the stem with parts from the Revell 1/35 RS0/03, PaK 40 kit.
Other than that I've added new ports where the cables run from the body into the stem.
I need to texture the open area on the back of the stem (flat rolled metal), and texture the plates at the front (cast looking).
Also I need to add a collar top and bottom to ensure a flat fit at either end.



The next area I'm paying attention to is re-rigging the pipework/cabling on the body, to something make that looks realistic to me. (not explained mind you, just stuff that looks like it would work.)
Its mostly dictated by whats coming from the head and lower portions, plus whatever greeblies catch my eye while I'm putting it together.
I feel these models benefit from a little extra depth to make them believable.

After that I have the Antigrav modules to rebuild, they picked the worst place to put a split so I'm going to make the coils from scratch and refit the housing over the top.



The orange highlighted parts are the areas I need to remove.

I kinda noodle on the bigger kits, about half of the changes are planned. The other half just kinda evolve as I'm going.

Intermission - Texturing tutorial

Most times I post a model with a cast texture applied I'm asked how I did it.
So to save time in the future I thought I'd write a short(ish) tutorial.

Stage One - Light Texture

Firstly you need a model. :D



Mask off any areas that you don't want to be surfaced.
I use Maskol as Mr Surfacer doesn't stick to it too easily.
You will need to remove and reapply the mask between the different stages, to prevent the sponge and surfacer from building up too much over the masked parts.


(I know, I know, this was photoshopped in after the fact :P )

These are the main ingredients. Mr Surfacer 1200, and 500, plus one sponge.



It is a fairly simple technique. load up the sponge "tip" with surfacer and repeatedly dab it against the models surface.
Only do a small area at a time If you try to do too large an area the coat will dry and wont react the right way.
Split the model into quarters (front/back left/right that sort of thing)

First the surfacer will develop small humps, then it will start to string a little.
Don't worry this will melt back into the wet surfacer.
The main point of this is to make the surface coat dry out and start to grip the sponge.

Small parts of sponge will tear from the main body and stick to the surface, this will create the pits that give it that open cast look, and also the raised areas that will be applied in a later stage.



Leave it to dry overnight. Important! It might look dry on the surface, but if you try to sand it too soon it will just tear and clump up.
Better to leave it a little longer than do it too soon and ruin it.

Once its dry.
Cut the Layer back so it is very thin, otherwise it will overpower the later stages.



Then sand first with a mid grade sandpaper (I use wet and dry 280 grade paper)



Then move on to a fine grade (400), the point of this is to remove the small pieces of sponge just leaving behind their impressions.
Then remove the mask.



I normally stop at this stage for things like arms and legs as they don't really need the heavy texture applied to the body.



Stage Two - Medium Texture

re-apply your mask.



This next stage is to add some slightly heavier pits to specific areas.
The goal is not to re coat the model at this stage but to either emphasise earlier pits or re-apply to areas sanded clean.

Using the sponge from the previous stage causes larger clumps to gather on the surface, due to the sponge already being coated in surfacer.







As with stage one sand back and remove your mask.







Stage Three - Heavy Texture

This stage will add the "scabs" seen on the surface of WWII era tanks particularly Shermans and other sandcast Allied tanks.

I use a thickened bottle of Mr Surfacer 500 for this.



You can either use an old bottle or thicken it with acrylic resin, talc, or calcium carbonate.



Again mask off areas you want to keep..
The thicker surfacer will dry faster and differently to the neat stuff, leaving behind large clumps due to it drying quickly and pulling more sponge off as you go.





One final sand and its finished :D







Obviously you can alter this to taste, stopping at whatever stage you like.
Unfortunately the camera doesn't pick up on all the subtle pits and marks until its painted, and the effect will always look better in real life than in pictures.